The Complete Book of Cheese

Book Excerpt: la Hibben once wrote in The New Yorker: I can't imagine any difference of opinion about Brie's being the queen of all cheeses, and if there is any such difference, I shall certainly ignore it. The very shape of Brie--so uncheese-like and so charmingly fragile--is exciting. Nine times out of ten a Brie will let you down--will be all caked into layers, which shows it is too young, or at the over-runny stage, which means it is too old--but when you come on the tenth Brie,...
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Book Excerpt: la Hibben once wrote in The New Yorker: I can't imagine any difference of opinion about Brie's being the queen of all cheeses, and if there is any such difference, I shall certainly ignore it. The very shape of Brie--so uncheese-like and so charmingly fragile--is exciting. Nine times out of ten a Brie will let you down--will be all caked into layers, which shows it is too young, or at the over-runny stage, which means it is too old--but when you come on the tenth Brie, coulant to just the right, delicate creaminess, and the color of fresh, sweet butter, no other cheese can compare with it. The season of Brie, like that of oysters, is simple to remember: only months with an "R," beginning with September, which is the best, bar none. Caciocavallo From Bulgaria to Turkey the Italian "horse cheese," as Caciocavallo translates, is as universally popular as it is at home and in all the Little Italics throughout the rest of the world. Flattering imitations are made and n Read More